Legacy of genius, or why we love sunglasses by John Galliano.
Under the brand John Galliano, which bears the name of one of the most striking and original designers of our time, John Galliano, today is released a line of clothes, shoes, jewelry and, of course, frames and sunglasses. The history of this brand is a basis of our material.
Childhood in the rhythm of flamenco.
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| The kingdom of glorious Galliano. |
Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano-Guillén - that's the name of John Galliano by a passport - was born in 1960 in Gibraltar. Galliano's mother was a Spaniard, and his father - an Englishman, but with Italian roots, as indicated by his last name. The combustible mixture of blood, is not it? Galliano was six years old when his family moved to London. The boy's father worked as a plumber and his mother took care of children, whose was three in the family. There will be a mistake to assume that the Galiano family lived modestly, but it seems that they do not become discouraged, as far as we can judge about it years later. Mother has taught John and sisters to dance a flamenco, has arranged theatrical performances and has clothed children in ceremonial clothing, even if they need just walk to the corner of the house. The neighbors thought that Galliano is enough strange little family. And his classmates thought to put it mildly John was a strange boy. He saw the world differently than others, in addition, he was extremely vulnerable, and thus often was the subject of ridicule classmates.
He found much his like-minded persons later: in the London Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, to which he was enrolled in 1981. His graduation collection of clothing called "Unbelievable» (Les Incroyables) was inspired by the French Revolution. This enthusiasm was derived to London's National Theatre, where he earned additionally as a costumier in parallel. Even then, inherent to him an epatage spirit had been displayed in the images he created. The collection not only earned him honors, and became a ticket to the world of high fashion. All eight models of the collection were acquired by London-based avant-garde clothing store "Browns", and exhibited in his shop window. But they were there short-lived: the exhibits were sold out within days.
How John Galliano brand had been battle-hardened.
In 1984, with the support of investors, the designer created his own brand of John Galliano. His debut collection of clothes, he presented at London Fashion Week. It was called, neither more nor less, "Afghanistan Repudiates Western Ideals". Behind her followed by collections with of no less interesting titles: "The Ludic Game", "Fallen Angels", "Forgotten Innocents". Every show by designer was turned into an exciting theatrical performance. But despite the fact that his well thought out and orchestrated fashion show enjoyed great success, the collection sold out badly. The reason lies on the surface: they were too far removed from real life. Friends were persuading Gagliano "bring in to land" a flight of fancy and think more about the material side of thing. However both Afghanistan which did not accept Western values and the artist did not want to compromise of their principles. In 1988, merits of Galliano have been appreciated at the national level: a collection of "Blanche Dubois", dedicated to heroine of the plays of Tennessee Williams of "Streetcar Desire", he was awarded the title of "Best British Designer of the Year". Critics was amazed by a new interpretation of the asymmetric cut, proposed by Galliano. In 1994 the designer once again blew up the fashion world. This time by means collection called "Princess Lucretia". The image of the fugitive-princess to originated after the Galliano accidentally read a newspaper article about the study of the remains of the royal family, found in Yekaterinburg. This story so grab his attention that he created a collection of dresses that could be weared by imagined princess. Models walked on podium in quilted satin capes, lush ball gowns, skirts from taffeta, in which was used electric cord as a skeleton. However, despite the admiration of critics and reviewers of glossy press the collection did not enjoy commercial success, with the result that the sponsor canceled the contract with the designer. The continued existence of brand John Galliano has been put under serious threat.
Paris recognition.
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"Sunglasses are the Abs fashion accessory as well as the
absolute alibi. That is the status emblem that hide the unceremonious
gaze and shows only the glossy reflection you want to project. I
desired to build new shades, and new glamour, for my muses to play their
part in." (J. Galliano)
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Salvation came in the person of the chief editor of American magazine "Vogue" Anna Wintour. In Paris, she introduced designer to the influential people and she helped arrange a demonstration of the new autumn-winter collection 1994/95 in one of the luxurious private villas located in the heart of the capital of fashion. On the creation of the collection, which many now view business card designer, Galliano spent a record 15 days. Being in a financial bind, he had created what he could afford. The basic material for the collection was black crepe satin with a smooth shiny front side and lustreless with a crepe effect seamy side. The collection was so amazing that the top models including Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and Linda Evangelista as payment for demonstration was asked to get their designer dress instead the money. This fashion show has become a kind of moment of truth, and proved an absolute genius of Galliano.
John Galliano's talent soon attracted the attention of the Bernard Arnault which is the head of the group LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy). In 1995 he invited him to the post of creative director of the house Givenchy. On this position, the British nonconformist Galliano, the son of a plumber and a housewife, replaced the founder of the house Givenchy - French aristocrat Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy. And many tend to think his leaving was of forced. And soon, Galliano turned on his eyes to many things: he realized that the work of the designer must provide a profit, that the world fashion industry lives by its strict laws and without sentimentality goodbye to everyone who stop to be convenient. However, the inexhaustible talent of Galliano and his unbridled creativity should be enough to be sure this hard lot isn't for him.
Less than two years, John Galliano took the helm of the fashion house Christian Dior, who before him had held in his strong hands Gianfranco Ferré. Gianfranco explained his leaving by decision to create its own brand. Thanks Galliano house Christian Dior has achieved tremendous financial success. "I had to learn how to please the tastes of the residents of Miami, Japanese tourists and the rich Jewish ladies. Moreover, it was necessary to present it all on the podium in the integral and coherent appearance"- said Galliano on the pages of "Harper's Bazaar" magazine in 2007.
Both in terms of creativity as well as in terms of commercial results, John Galliano went down in history as the most successful designer Christian Dior house from the time of the Christian Dior. At the same time he was creating, and their collections under the brand John Galliano, allowing himself to let off steam. And what were the collection - an explosion of emotions! Designed for a new generation of rebels, romantics, trendsetters and individualists. They was surprising by the originality and boldness, which always come to expect from Galliano.
In 2008 it became known that it has signed a five-year license agreement with "Marcolin". (The Italian company "Marcolin" is one of the world's leading manufacturers of frames and sunglasses. Along with John Galliano brand name in the "piggy bank" the company's brands also include Diesel, Dsquared2, Montblanc, Roberto Cavalli, Swarovski, Tod's, Tom Ford). "John Galliano is genius. The agreement will strengthen our company's strategy, aimed at the production of collections of luxury eyeglasses and sunglasses brands” - has commented, Maurizio Marcolin, one of the leaders of the Italian company. Senor Marcolin was not deceived in their expectations, as well as fans of John Galliano brend in their own. They are eagerly awaiting the release of each new collection of frames and sunglasses from John Galliano, wonderfully combining high fashion and functionality.
If we talk about the collection of John Galliano, prepared for the new season, we note that in the design of men's sunglasses are clearly seen two major trends: an appeal to the military style and fresh interpretations of sunglasses classic. When working with a women's line of sunglasses has been formulated and brilliantly solved the problem to create a sunglasses similar to an elegant multi-colored veil, adorned the face of top-models at a recent John Galliano fashion shows in Paris. The result was the emergence of extremely feminine and yet extravagant sunglasses and eyeglasses, being worthy of the name of a brilliant designer.
